Our escapade through Te Urewera ended at we emerged out the other side of Lake Waikaremoana and out into the farmlands that lead towards the coast and the township of Wairoa. The sudden contrast from lush native rainforest to farmland was a stark reminder of the damage that has been done to New Zealand’s ecosystems since the arrival of European settlers to the area 160 years ago. Although the farmland, lakes, and hydro dams were stunningly scenic, it was clear what the cost had been in terms of lost flora and fauna. Thousands of years of growth felled or burned in the name of progress. Even on Great Barrier much of the original rainforest had been destroyed, with large pockets of the island now being classed as regenerating bush and forest. Te Urewera is a reminder of how things could have looked.

We arrived in Wairoa in time for a late lunch followed by the compulsory browse of the local second-hand shops. At one shop we found a lady holding a baby goat (go figure) who gave us a tour of the back of her shop which she had converted into a secret covered garden complete with outhouse. Beyond this was a small unit that she rented out to holiday makers. In winter she rented the whole place as a party venue. It was Wairoa’s own Narnia hiding through the back door of the her wardrobe!

After purchasing a whole lot of stuff we really didn’t need, we departed Wairoa for Napier. About halfway along, we noticed the familiar sway and sound of a puncture – a puncture we must have had for the past 150 kilometres given all the grit and stones rattling around the ruptured tyre. With the nearest tyre centre being an hour in either direction (and probably closed now that it was dusk), we set to and changed the tyre with great precision (and minimal arguing) then were off again in search of a campsite.

A few bends later we happened across a rest area at Lake Tutira where we stopped for the night. Now if we’d driven 500 metres further up the road (or consulted our book), we’d have seen the DoC campsite at Lake Tutira, which upon inspection the next morning looked a far better place to park up. Nonetheless, the morning stillness over Lake Tutira was breathtaking. There are truly so many beautiful places around this country, and early Spring seems to be the best time to see them as there is no-one else around.

Lake Tutira (near Napier)

We finally reached Napier, and the tyre shop, only to be relieved of $255 for a whole new tyre (we had completely munted the original tyre having driven on it over most of Te Urewera!)

Somewhere near where we changed our tyre (again)